| 1.
Fair Isle |
9. Make 1 |
17. Lazy Daisy
Stitch |
| 2. Guernsey Edge
(even no. of sts) |
10. Blanket Stitch |
18. Satin Stitch |
| 3. Guernsey Edge (odd
no. of sts) |
11. Bullion Stitch |
19. Stem Stitch |
| 4. Mattress Stitch |
12. Chain Stitch |
20. Colour Twist Knit |
| 5. Work on a Set of Needles |
13. Straight Stitch |
21. Make a Tassel |
| 6. Make a Twisted Cord |
14. Star Stitch |
22. Make a Pompon |
| 7. Knit Stitch Embroidery |
15. Cross Stitch |
23. Grafting |
| 8. Cast on Thumb Method |
16. French Knots |
24. Knitting up Stitches |
| 1.
FAIR ISLE
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| For this technique the colours
not in use are carried loosely across the
wrong side of work so as not to distort
the shape of the stitches being knitted. |
| 1. On a knit row, hold the
first colour in your right hand and the
second colour in your left hand. Work as
normal with the first colour, carrying the
second loosely across the wrong side of
work. |
| 2. When the second colour
is required, insert the right hand needle
into the next stitch and draw a loop through
from the yarn held in the left hand, carrying
the yarn in the right hand loosely across
the wrong side until next required. |
| 3. On a purl row, work as
usual with the first colour held in the
right hand, holding the second colour in
the left hand. |
|
| 4. To purl a stitch in the
second colour insert the right hand needle
into the next stitch purlways and draw a
loop through from the yarn held in the left
hand. |
If there
are more than 6 stitches worked in one
colour, cross the yarns over each other
on every 3rd or 4th stitch to avoid long,
loose strands.
If you find it awkward to hold the yarns
in both hands, simply work as usual, dropping
the yarn not in use and picking it up
again when required, making sure that
it is not pulled across the wrong side.
Always carry the same colour across the
top throughout the row for a neat appearance
on the wrong side, and to avoid the yarns
becoming twisted. |
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| 2.
HOW TO CAST ON FOR GUERNSEY EDGE
(even number of sts) |
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| Using 3 balls of yarn, proceed
as follows: |
| 1. Take one ball of yarn
and make a slip knot on needle. Holding
ends of 2 rem balls in left hand (short
ends upwards), wind short ends twice anticlockwise
around thumb of left hand. Holding needle
with slip knot in right hand, insert needle
from bottom to top under the 4 strands on
thumb. |
| 2. Using the yarn attached
to the slip knot, knit one st in usual manner
and slip the 4 strands from thumb. Pull
the double yarn firmly to the needle to
form a knot. |
| 3. Yarn forward - bring yarn
under needle, then over into knitting position
again, thus making a st. |
|
| 4. Wind double yarn twice
anticlockwise around the left thumb. Knit
one st through double yarn and slip four
strands off as before, pulling yarn firmly
to needle to make a knot ... 4 sts. |
| Rep steps 3 and 4 until there
are number of sts required. |
Break off
double yarn, turn and proceed as instructed
in patt. |
| NOTE: The
wrong side will now be facing for first
row of work. |
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| 3.
HOW TO CAST ON FOR GUERNSEY EDGE (odd
number of sts) |
|
| Using 3 balls of yarn, proceed
as follows: |
| 1. Take one ball of yarn
and make a slip knot on needle. Holding
ends of 2 rem balls in left hand (short
ends upwards), wind short ends twice anticlockwise
around thumb of left hand. Holding needle
with slip knot in right hand, insert needle
from bottom to top under the 4 strands on
thumb. |
| 2. Using the yarn attached
to the slip knot, knit one st in usual manner
and slip the 4 strands from thumb. Pull
the double yarn firmly to the needle to
form a knot. |
| 3. Yarn forward - bring yarn
under needle, then over into knitting position
again, thus making a st. |
|
| 4. Wind double yarn twice
anticlockwise around the left thumb. Knit
one st through double yarn and slip four
strands off as before, pulling yarn firmly
to needle to make a knot ... 4 sts. |
| Rep steps 3 and 4 until there
are number of sts required, then rep step
4 again .. odd number of sts. Break off
double yarn, turn and proceed as instructed
in patt. |
| Break off double yarn, turn
and proceed as instructed in patt. |
| NOTE: The wrong side will
now be facing for first row of work. |
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| 4.
MATTRESS STITCH |
|
| This seam will give your
handknit a professional finish. Even if
you have always used backstitch or oversewn
seams, try this method and you will be surprised
how easy it is and how much better the seams
look and feel. |
| Mattress stitch should be
worked one whole stitch in from the edge.
It can even be worked on shaped edges -
as you are working from the right side,
it is easy to see where you are and to keep
the seam neat and straight. |
When starting, leave a
long end which can be secured by running
it back along the edge when the seam is
completed. If the seam needs to be undone,
simply pull this end, drawing the yarn
through the stitches.
|
| 1. With right
side facing you, lay the two pieces to be
joined flat and edge to edge. Thread a knitters
needle and insert the needle between the
edge stitch and the second stitch on the
first row. Pass the needle under two rows,
then bring it back through to the front. |
|
| 2. Return to the opposite
side and, working under two rows at the
same time throughout, repeat this zigzag
action always taking the needle under the
strands that correspond exactly to the other
side, and going into the hole that the last
stitch on that side came out of, taking
care not to miss any rows. |
| The mattress stitch stitching
should be elastic without being loose -
while working keep yarn held firm, not pulling
sts too tightly. |
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| 5.
WORKING ON A SET OF NEEDLES |
|
A set of needles consists
of 4 (or more) needles with points at each
end, used for seamless knitting.
When knitting on a set, divide the stitches
roughly equally between 3 of the needles,
then use the 4th needle to begin the work. |
| When the sts on the first
needle have been worked, use the now free
needle to work the sts on the next needle. |
|
| Knitting is done in rounds
rather than rows. Do not turn the work but
knit around in a circle. Every round is
knitted on the right side so every
row knit forms stocking st. |
| A set of needles can be replaced
by a circular needle of suitable length
for working on neckbands, however they are
not suitable for crowns of hats. |
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| 6.
TO MAKE A TWISTED CORD |
|
| 1. Cut the required number
of strands of yarn 2 - 3 times the length
of the finished cord. eg. 4 strands of yarn
100cm long will produce a cord 8 strands
thick and approx 40cm long. Knot the strands
together at each end, making sure all lengths
are equal. |
| 2. Attach one end to a pin,
hook or handle, insert a knitting needle
through the other end. Turn the knitting
needle clockwise until the strands are well
twisted. |
|
| 3. Holding the centre of
the cord, place the needle and the hook
end together, keeping the cord taut to avoid
tangling. |
| 4. Release the centre of
the cord so that the two halves twist together.
Smooth out any lumps. Knot and trim both
ends. |
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| 7.
KNITTING STITCH EMBROIDERY
|
| 1. When working from right
to left, bring the needle out in the centre
of the stitch and take it up and around
the head of the stitch from right to left
(under the stitch above) as shown. |
| 2. Take the needle back through
the centre of the original stitch and out
through the centre of the stitch on the
left. |
|
| 3. When working from left
to right, bring the needle out in the centre
of the stitch and take it up and around
the head of the stitch from left to right
(instead of from right to left). |
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8.
CASTING ON THUMB METHOD
Casting on Thumb Method requires the use
of your left thumb and 1 knitting needle.
|
1. To begin, make a slip knot, leaving a
length of yarn before the slip knot approx
4 times the required width for the sts cast
on. Assessing this measurement takes some
practice, but as a general rule allow approx
2.5 metres for an adults garment for
Back and Front and approx 1 metre for sleeves.
Place the slip knot on needle in your right
hand. * Wrap yarn end around the left thumb
from front to back. |
|
2. Insert the needle upwards through the
yarn on the thumb and knit the st in the
usual manner. |
| 3.
Remove the yarn from thumb and pull yarn
slightly to tighten st. Repeat from * until
the required number of sts have been cast
on (counting the slip knot as one st). |
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| 9.
MAKE 1 (abbreviated as 'M1') |
|
|
Pick
up the yarn lying between the stitch just worked
and the next stitch and place it on the left hand
needle, then knit (or purl) into the back of this
loop. |
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| 10.
BLANKET STITCH
|
|
This
stitch may used along edges where there is no
ribbing, it can also be used as a decorative stitch
around pockets, collars etc. |
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| 11.
BULLION STITCH
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|
Make
a back stitch, the size of the Bullion Stitch
required, and bring the needle out where it first
emerged, without pulling right through. Wind the
yarn around the point of needle as many times
as required. Holding the left thumb on the coiled
thread, pull the needle through. Still holding
the coiled thread, turn the needle back to where
it was inserted and insert in the same place.
Pull the needle through. |
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| 12.
CHAIN STITCH |
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| 13.
STRAIGHT STITCH |
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| 14.
STAR STITCH |
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| 19.
STEM STITCH |
|
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Stem
stitch is worked from left to right, taking small
sts across. Always keep the thread below the needle
(refer illustration). |
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| 20.
COLOUR TWIST KNITTING |
|
| This technique is used to
knit garments with blocks of different colours,
avoiding the extra bulk of Fair Isle knitting.
Usually the pattern includes a graph where
the odd numbered rows are knitted from right
to left and the wrong side rows are purled
from left to right. When using this method,
you will need a separate ball for each section
of colour. If you need lots of separate
balls, it will be easier to wind yarn onto
bobbins. Yarn bobbins can be purchased or
cut from cardboard. |
|
| Only unwind short lengths
as required, to prevent tangles. The bobbins
hang on the wrong side of your work when
not in use. The colour twist method involves
twisting the different coloured yarns over
each other to prevent holes. Twist the colour
to be used underneath and to the right of
the colour just used. Always change colours
on the wrong side of work so colour change
does not show on right side. |
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| 21.
HOW TO MAKE A TASSEL |
|
| 1. Cut a rectangle of card
as wide as the required length of the finished
tassel. Wind the yarn around the card until
the required thickness is reached. Break
the yarn, thread through a knitters needle
and pass the needle under all the loops.
Do not remove needle. |
| 2. Tie the end of the yarn
firmly around the loops, remove the card
and cut through the loops at the opposite
end to the knot. |
|
| 3. Wind a length of yarn
around all the loops 2cm below the fold
and fasten securely. Pass the needle through
the top and use the end to sew in place.
Trim the end neatly. |
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| 23.
GRAFTING
|
| Used
to join two pieces of knitting without the
bulk of a seam. Sts are not cast off but
are left on the needles. Place evenly on
2 needles and join following steps 1 to
4 at left. |
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| 24. knitting up stitches |
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| Insert needle through fabric one whole
stitch in from the edge, wrap yarn around needle (as
for knitting) and draw through fabric |
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| Repeat step 1 as many times
as required, spacing the number of stitches evenly along
the piece of knitting. |
All stitches
knitted up ready to begin 1st row or round. |
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